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Skylight Inn restaurant pitmaster and Ayden Fire Chief Sam Jones holds his firefighter's helmet and coat as he stands outside of his restaurant Tuesday. (Rhett Butler/The Daily Reflector)
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Skylight Inn restaurant pitmaster and Ayden Fire Chief Sam Jones holds his firefighter's helmet and coat as he stands outside of his restaurant Tuesday. (Rhett Butler/The Daily Reflector)

A fiery balancing act

By Sharieka Breeden

The Daily Reflector

3 Comments | Leave a Comment


Sam Jones isn’t big on titles. He’s also not one to take credit or overlook the work of others.

The 34-year-old Ayden fire chief and pit master and manager of Skylight Inn is focused on continuing his family’s legacy, that he said his grandfather, Pete Jones, started in 1947, doing his part and making sure he acknowledges others for doing theirs.

“From my earliest recollection Skylight Inn has been a mainstay,” he said. “This restaurant has been our bread and butter.”

Jones said his wife is very supportive of his role in the fire department and the restaurant. He also receives support from his dad and uncle when it comes to balancing both positions.

Growing up Jones said he worked at the restaurant, which he despised prior to an assignment at Pitt Community College.

“I hated it with a passion,” he said. “I was going to PCC and I was able to write a paper on whatever I wanted to write it on. I figured if I was going to fill up 10 to 15 pages I would do it on barbecue. I chatted with my grandfather and my dad to make sure I had all the dates. When I looked at how far back it had been in the family, it made me look at it different than a job.”

A new outlook helped Jones play his part in the family business. Jones’ grandfather exited the business in 2004 as his health declined. He passed away in 2006 and the family worked to keep the business the same.

“When he passed away, local news covered it and after that we saw about a 25 percent decline,” he said. “We were trying not to change things. There were rumors that it was sold, already shut down. Even though it was just speculation, it had a negative impact. We were fortunate we were able to weather that storm.”

Staying true to the family’s tradition of cooking fresh hogs over wood worked for the restaurant that Jones said has been blessed to have an increase in business for the last five years.

Now invitations to cooking competitions, awards and sharing the wood-fire cooking with people all over the country have also become a part of the business’s legacy.

“I have been invited to special events all over the country,” he said. “I travel with the Fatback Collective to do charity events to help a variety of organizations.”

Jones said he attended his first traveling event for the restaurant in 2008.

From providing assistance with building a restaurant that burned in Tennessee to traveling to Birmingham, Ala., to Jones Valley Teaching Farm to teach kids that food doesn’t come from a grocery store, food and networking have created an outlet to give back.

Trips to the Big Apple Barbecue Block Party in Madison Square Park in New York and cooking at the Charleston Food and Wine Festival have also served as ways for Jones to share his family’s tradition.

“It was very humbling to think I would be in a lineup with people like this,” he said. “My grandfather and our family has been blessed to be mentioned with some of the heavy-hitters in barbecue. It seems like if they pull a place to throw in a debate, we are in a list. When you are mentioned with some of the great places, we don’t take it lightly. We need to keep doing what we were doing to start with.”

Giving back and sharing the family tradition have become constants. Competition is also a part of the business.

A trip to cook at the World Championships in Memphis was one that Jones said provided him with a chance to make a statement.

"We wanted to do something good with pure food,” he said. “We took third place the first time out. Being invited to all these events to showcase what our family has done all these years is very humbling. It gives you pep in your step to come back to Ayden and people being very excited about you preserving this cooking.”

For Jones, who said his uncle Jeff Jones taught him how to cook pigs, the experiences and the traveling have served as an eye opener to how much people in the culinary world appreciate traditional cooking. Receiving the James Beard Award in 2003 also served as affirmation. Keeping traditions at the family-owned restaurant and treating every staff member like family are key ingredients in the businesses success.

While Jones’ passion for the restaurant business has grown, an interest that he has had since he was 12 has blossomed, too.

When a horse barn near the restaurant caught fire, Jones said he saw firefighters work to prevent loss of life and property damage.

“The fire department piqued my interest at a young age,” he said. “A fire occurred in my grandfather’s main stable and I remember when the fire department arrived. I was amazed by watching them work. It’s one thing to see a fire truck in a parade or to go to a firehouse, but to actually see all the moving parts of the fire scene was amazing.”

The memory and having friends from school in the department helped to influence Jones’ interest.

After being turned down at 16 to get a position at the Ayden Fire Department because he was too young, Jones remained persistent and decided to work around waiting until his 18th birthday for a chance to join.

He said he reached out to the chief in Black Jack where his mother grew up and some of his friends had served.

Jones started volunteering with the department in 1996 and served his first two years as a firefighter with the Black Jack department where he said he was able to complete his recruit training and develop the basic skills to hit the ground running with the Ayden Fire Department.

Since joining he has served in every rank prior to his current position as chief, which he has held since 2013.

Although the chief is viewed by outsiders as the head of the department, Jones said nobody who is the head is better than the team of people they are working with.

“Personally I am no better than the group of guys that I have with me,” he said. “The chief barely extinguishes one fire ever. It’s the guys who actually go to a vehicle to extricate someone from it. The chief is just one spoke in the wheel.”

Recognizing the value of every member of any group is a concept that Jones applies to everything he does.

“It’s a collective effort,” he said. “If you look at a football team, one guy carries it into the end zone, but it still took a group of guys to get him there. ... I want everyone to know their opinions matter.”

While Jones said there are days that it is hectic when a fire call throws a kink in things or long days at the restaurant where he wishes he was at a 9-5 and could just walk out, commitment to serving others keeps him going.

“Then there’s the day, with long lines where customers walk in and say I’ve been eating here since 1955 and it is better than it ever has been,” he said. “This is the third generation and I am not going to let the colors go down. It’s not just a place we work or make our living. The whole barbecue culture is in our family. It’s not about look at me. It’s about look at our whole family and the blessings that have been sent our way as a result of the hard work. Ultimately this is where we make our living. To us it’s also a tradition and a legacy to maintain.”

 

Contact Sharieka Breeden at 252-329-9567 and @sbreeden@reflector.com. Follow her on Twitter @ShariekaB.

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